Last year some of my friends had an unpleasant experience at Boč, our local crag. A resin bolt on a route which had been bolted at least fifteen years ago by a climber who had since stopped climbing came out. It had been placed quite close to the ground, so the consequences could’ve been tragic.
I myself have also visited many smaller crags with old and corroded bolts. Numerous tests and practical experiences have shown that such bolts withstand very small forces before braking.
A question arises as to who should maintain these crags, which are included in the official guidebook. In Slovenia this isn’t very clear. Is the sport-climbing organization the one responsible? Or maybe is the local climbing clubs? Individuals? As a sport-climber and a mountain guide responsible for the safety of my clients, I don’t expect an immediate answer.
What should we, as individuals, do upon encountering such a poorly equipped crag (poorly protected routes, corroded bolts, inadequate anchors etc.)?
1. Make sure that safety is the most important factor.
2. Let people know that something is wrong. Internet forums are the most suitable media for such information.
3. Try to get someone properly qualified to replace the inappropriate bolts and anchors.
Danilo Tič
